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Day 12 – the first real rain all trip

We woke greeted by the rhythm of reasonably heavy rain, the first real rain we had seen all trip. The grounds of the Beach Hotel are well designed & drank up the morning shower. Enjoying the cool onshore breeze of the morning was very mild & pleasant as we considered the surfing option over Kopi & Banana pancakes.

We decided to head to Seger & see if the reef was producing more of the same challenging, powerful & fun rights. It wasn’t, the tide was too low.

Wade & I pushed onto Grupuk in search of the Outside Lefts, again. We arrived at the harbour, hopped a boat with Capitan Danny & motored the 15 minutes to hit the challenging left. As we headed out it was clear there was swell & no one out… Nerves kicked in.

Hopping over board we soon realised the waves where pretty disorganised with multiple swells confusing the line up. The size was variable & at around 3-5ft was very manageable. We got a few, but it wasn’t great.

We headed back to the boat to try Outside Rights. On the way over we could see it was solid 6ft++ with a few guys out, Wado & I started to froth & paddled out.

In the line up, I had seen a few bombs push though all the way down the reef & with limited energy after surfing the lefts I headed out to the furthest peak to snare a big one. After watching a set or two, I lined up a stonker & committed. Paddling hard, it started to lift me & I got set to take off, as I did the face of the wave surged up, the lip threw & I got annihilated…. Driven into the deep water I was ragged dolled so violently, it stripped my rashie clean off. Surfacing after this beating about 50m down the line coughing & spluttering & zinging with adrenalin… It was the wipeout that I had to have…

I caught an inside one & headed back to the boat, shirtless, no energy & only two waves ridden! I was ok with that, I hadn’t hurt myself or been rattled beyond returning for more.

Wade, got a couple of nice ones & had a smoker lined up for a bit of tube time. As he set his rain the wave bowled & bent, the lip lurched & drove hard into his back, pushing him face first into the wave face. We laughed hard about our wipe outs at Outside rights.

We took in the dusk from a bar set on the ridge to the west above Kuta. The landscape here is breath taking & we soaked it in with a few cold Bintang & some amazing Chilli Poppers.

Day complete – 1 day to go in Lombok… feels as surreal as when we first got here. Home is front of mind & we all miss our fam’s.

DO GOOD HAVE FUN
DAVE

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