Firstly massive props to Huey for delivering some waves to the Sunny Coast, after almost a full month of early spring swell conditions…ie nada waves with northerly winds… but with no fish!
Was great to get back out there, feel the surge, push, glide and flow…. & then the flop you get when you fall off….(sort of).
I was eager as to get out there, frothing some would say. I had my new 40 year old Goodtime 6’6 Single Fin & my old faithful allounder Lost Mayhem 6.0 Quad with me. I hadn’t surfed solid (ish) waves in over a month & the thought of taking the singo out didn’t really thrill me. I just wanted to go out on a board I love & not risk that first surf in awhile stoke, with a total kook session.
I took a punt on the singo, pulled my shoulders back & stepped down onto the rock hop at Alexandra Headland in front of the gallery of onlookers… I could see them wonder WTF is this dude doing… & WTF is that on the bottom of his board. I felt the eyes & paddled out.
Dave with MP hero board
Now I haven’t ridden a board like this for many many years & was pretty apprehensive about how it would paddle, duck dive, take off, turn, the whole box n dice.
The first wave loomed, I spun, picked my line, pushed hard, wobbled & went K-SPLAT… wiped out on the first take off, but I was smiling… It felt awesome to be on a piece of surfing history & to be only one in the line up with anything close.
Next wave & woooosssshhhh, the take off, the line speed was amazing…. the old girl chattered a bit, I held it straight, no turns… kicked out & felt like a grom again. A wide smile consumed my face. I paddled back out… after a few more waves getting the feel, I was good to go… later & bigger.
The next hour was one of the most enjoyable surfs I have had in quite a while, chatting to crew in the line up about the board CTRL V, MP…..other crap you pass the time with kindred surfing spirits, catching a few & getting the feel for the Goodtime.
Well the lack of surfing tolled loudly, TWANG, my calf cramped… in I paddled, a bit pissed that my session had come to an end abruptly. I staggered up the rock hop & climbed the stairs to a familiar “nice board Dave”… Sharon Jackson from Da Bomb Surf Centre (who sold me the board a week or so earlier), shot me a wave. I wandered up to the viewing platform at Alex & we chatted about the waves & the board… within 5 minutes I was chatting with new friends about the DCals, MP, the board… wow… from calf cramp woes to CTRL V frother in 5 mins. Sharon introduced me to a few of the Alex crew & we chatted for 30 mins or so and met quite a few potential customers. The feedback was amazing… even posed for a pic with the board…
Funny how things turn out. In reflection every decision led me to that moment & I was in it, “raving” about the CTRL V idea & sharing my passion for surfing… twas surreal…
DO GOOD HAVE FUN
MP B&W Hero Board Available here – http://ctrlv.com.au/product/mp-hero-board-bw/